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I grouped these three questions together because they all involve the same kind of reasoning and knowledge related to designing around yarn. The first important step to take is to download the Master Yarn Chart.
Madelyn gives a clever trick for dealing with changing weft colors multiple times throughout a weaving.
Winding a warp with lots of colors, especially in a complex pattern, can be an awkward process. Madelyn explains the easiest way to do it.
Madelyn shares her tips for yarn substitutions when you can't or don't want to use the yarn specified in your weaving patterns.
Here is a dilemma: I have inherited several cones of two different yarns and would like to make a table runner, but I'm not confident in how to approach it.
I am weaving a small table runner using 3/2 pearl cotton for warp and weft (red and green in the warp, white in the weft). I used a draft (#479, page 129) from Carol Strickler's A Weaver's Book of 8-Shaft Patterns, which I've modified a little.
I'm having a warp tension problem. After weaving a while, the edge warp threads are very tight and the center very loose, but all were even when I started.
Why do my selvedge threads loosen as I weave?
I have just wound a warp that took way too long to wind and I'm wondering if there is a better way.
I am weaving a silk scarf in huck lace and noticed that about four inches back I had made a serious treadling error. What can I do?
I had no idea how difficult woven rep was going to be—the threads are twisting between the reed and the heddles as I wind on. What else can I do?
There are two typical methods for handling floating selvedges. One is to wind and beam the floating selvedge with the rest of the warp...
