Ask Madelyn: Choosing a Reed for Even Sleying (Or Close)
I'm buying a new loom and choosing a reed with more dents. I'm trying to decide between a 10-dent and 12-dent. Which size should I get first?
Loading the latest stories…
Author
I'm buying a new loom and choosing a reed with more dents. I'm trying to decide between a 10-dent and 12-dent. Which size should I get first?
What do you do when you're warping a loom front to back, with multiple ends per dent, and your warps won't stop twisting? Madelyn is here to answer!
I'm interested in a project with lots of weft color changes. I'm worried that my edges will build up more than the rest of my weaving if I overlap tails.
If the instructions say to "use tabby," is this weaving overshot that's reversible? Should I use warp or weft yarns for the tabby to make it stand out?
I have a rigid heddle, but I've seen many other kinds of looms. What are differences between those looms and mine, besides size? What are the pros and cons?
A weaving friend of mine just came back from a workshop where she said the hardest part was weaving to square. What is that, and why is it important?
I was reading your article on Tied Overshot from Handwoven, and it doesn't look like the drawdown and treadling match in Figure 2, page 16.
Is there a way to test yarn for color fastness?
The temple will keep the warp threads parallel to each other so that the reed doesn’t rub on them.
I have read in various places that you recommend using a temple (stretcher) as a means of getting good selvedges.
In a recent Ask Madelyn, you talked about temples. Did you really mean to say that you advance the temple every three quarters of an inch?
When is a temple the most useful? Is it necessary?