Double Gray Hayes Foulard

Two project designers in *Handwoven May/June 2018 chose to weave their projects in overshot-patterned doubleweave, a four-shaft technique. One of them was Marcia Kooistra, who wanted to pay homage to Bertha Gray Hayes by weaving one of her designs, but in doubleweave. Marcia chose a thin cotton thread to weave her Double Gray Hayes Foulard that is crisp yet drapable. One of the things I love about the foulard’s design is its reversibility. One side looks clearly pink and the other looks lavender, and both are equally pretty.* If you haven’t tried overshot-patterned doubleweave before, this is a great project to start with. Use the pink and lavender that Marcia used, or choose two colors that say elegant and simple to you! Weave well, Susan

Marcia Kooistra’s Double Gray Hayes Foulard

Designer Marcia Kooistra’s Statement

I love overshot, especially the innovative ways Bertha Gray Hayes designed and wove it. It’s a shame we don’t know more about her. In fact, if it weren’t for the fantastic work of the Weaver’s Guild of Rhode Island, I wouldn’t know about Bertha Gray Hayes at all.

I decided to weave one of her patterns, Unnamed 4, but in doubleweave, and chose a Venne Nm 50/2 cotton yarn, otherwise known as sewing thread. Let’s call it a challenge! (The directions for the foulard substitute 30/2 cotton, which has a similar weight.) For beginning weavers and those not interested in this sort of weaving challenge, the pattern also looks good in 22/2 cottolin sett at 40 epi.

In the end, I didn’t like the result of “tromp as writ” and chose a twill-like treadling instead. You can choose one of two tie-ups: one that uses six treadles, which requires two treadles to be pushed down for every other pick, or one that uses eight treadles. Both tie-ups are given for this project.

I wove a foulard, not so much for warmth but for show, with patterning that reminds me of M. C. Escher designs.

Project at a Glance

PROJECT TYPE: 4-shaft.

STRUCTURE: Overshot-patterned doubleweave.

EQUIPMENT: 4-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins.

YARNS: 30/2 cotton (11,955 yd/lb; Borgs; Vävstuga).