Ask Madelyn: Pleated Scarves

Hi, Madelyn. I love the Twill Stripes scarves by Ruby Leslie in the Nov./Dec. 2009 issue of Handwoven. I would love to use some handpainted soy I have on hand as the warp.  It is 10/2 and 4,300 yd/lb versus the 8/2 tencel used in the article (3,360 yd/lb). I am wondering if the silk used in the article will be fine enough with the finer soy and also if two strands are needed.  I was thinking of using just one strand of 30/2 bombyx silk from Treenway at 7,500 yd/lb. Do you know if this will work?  I need to get weaving again. :-)

– Cathy

Hi Cathy!

This is a good question. My experience with pleating tells me that the finer the weft, the better. The finer it is, the less it wants to do anything to counteract the tendency for the warp versus weft sections to curve. I think the two 60/2 strands will work better for that than the one strand of 30/2. My best guess would be to use your yarn at the same sett as Ruby's. I'd then try the two 60/2 strands as weft or maybe even experiment with one. If her weft had been as thick as a single 30/2, I don't think she would have gotten nearly that much pleating at the same density.

You actually could experiment with all three (one 30/2, two 60/2, one 60/2). Weave about five inches of each and then wash the sample.

And get weaving!

––Madelyn